Aasim and Adeeb Shah, the brothers behind Turkish restaurants Kebapci and Klava, take a very different direction with their new restaurant. Located in UB City, Riko offers authentic Peruvian-Latin cuisine. The city has seen nikkei and Peruvian fusion restaurants before, but Riko claims to be the first one focussing on Latin dishes, by importing corns and chillies from the South American country. I visit for a first look.

Bomba de choclo
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Special arrangement

Riko has opened with a limited menu of 20 odd dishes. They plan to add more as the months go by. The restaurant is decked in shades of deep red and browns with accents and motifs that pay homage to Peru. The server brings out a platter showcasing some of the ingredients. There are giant dried chillies, an ear of corn that is dark purple, and an array of sauces, ranging from very spicy to mild. Riko does not serve alcohol, so I go with a Brazilian lemonade, which is average.

The first dish is bomba de choclo, a corn custard bomb. A sweet, whipped custard made of corn that is topped with cheese, served on top of a crispy shell. It is creamy and textural; we are off to a good start. The next course is a lamb empanada. The golden pasty is baked and filled with a spiced minced lamb mix. You cannot go wrong with meat in a pastry, and this one is no exception.

Tamal de cordero aka steamed tamales
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Special arrangement

Ceviche is a quintessential Latin American dish and is even the national dish of Peru. Made with marinated seafood, the dish is usually served cold. At Riko I try the vegan ceviche, ceviche de sandia, made of watermelon. This dish is nothing unique as the marinate is rather plain. They also offer a mango and shrimp ceviche. The next dish on the table makes up for it. I have a jackfruit tamale. Tamales are a dish made of corn dough wrapped and steamed in a corn husk, here made with the addition of jackfruit. The soft texture of the steamed dough and the subtle spices of the jackfruit are a nice pairing.

Fideos picantes secos (dry spicy noodles)
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

For mains Riko has a few options such as grilled chipotle salmon, bistec steak, and Peruvian rotisserie chicken. In a bid to try something different I opt for fideos picantes secos, translating to dry spicy noodles. Thanks to Chinese immigrants, Peru has a cuisine called chifa that uses Cantonese influences. Riko makes their noodles inhouse. They are thick and chewy, akin to udon. The dish is topped with chillies and minced meat. It is a comforting dish. Dessert is cachapa, a corn pancake. The pancake is stuffed with cheese and drizzled with honey, a nice balance of sweet and salty.

The service at Riko is warm, but a little slow. Hope it is only a teething problem. They soon plan to open a live kitchen set-up with grills. While there are many dishes for vegetarians, meat lovers may enjoy this one more.

₹2,200 for two. Open for dinner only. At UB City, Vittal Mallya Road. Reservations can be made through airmenus.in at a cost ₹900 that is redeemable against the bill