The Tamil Nadu Food Processing and Agri Export Promotion Corporation (TNAPEx) has filed an application seeking a Geographical Indication (GI) tag for the famous Koil idli or Kanchipuram ldli, which is one of the offerings at the Sri Varadharaja Perumal temple in the town mostly known for its silk sarees. The Madurai Agribusiness Incubation Forum, an initiative of NABARD and TNAU was the facilitator for this application.

A source in the temple explained that the foot-long koil idli is offered to the presiding deity after the morning’s Thiruvaradhana. “It is offered along with Venn pongal, ksheera annam, dhadhyonam and yaana puliyodharai. By 7.45 a.m. it will be distributed to devotees,” he explained.

The temple’s pathukadai, which is the shop selling prasadams also has Kanchipuram idlis. “Even if there is a small deviation from this time-tested recipe, the taste will change. The dried mandharai leaves in which the idlis are cooked in add to the flavour. There are people who buy it in large quantities to take home,” explained S. Balaji at the Pathukadai and has been making koil idli for over 40 years now.

Religious exponent Akkarakani Srinidhi Swami said that it was good that a GI tag was being obtained for the idli of the Sri temple. “Though nobody knows how it has become a part of the offerings at the temple, it has been here for a long time now.”

Unlike the smooth and fluffy South Indian idli, the Kanchipuram Idli is made using coarsely ground parboiled rice and black gram (urad dal), which gives it a dense and grainy texture.

The production of Kanchipuram Idli begins by soaking idli rice, whole black urad dal, and fenugreek seeds for about four hours. The soaked ingredients are ground to a moderately coarse batter with a thick pouring consistency. After grinding, coarsely crushed black pepper, cumin seeds, dry ginger powder, and asafoetida are added to the batter along with chopped curry leaves, salt, ghee, cold-pressed sesame oil, and sour curd. The batter is allowed to ferment naturally for 8 hours or ovemight until a mild soumess develops.

For steaming, Mandarai leaves are cut and used to line the inside of bamboo baskets or steel tumblers. The fermented batter is poured into these lined containers and covered with additional leaves. The containers are then steamed over medium heat for 25-60 minutes depending on size.